Following is an amazing piece of writing by my dear friend Juan Carlos Zaldivar. He is an exceptional man and filmmaker and someone I have just been lucky enough to find again in my life. One of those rare human beings who exude sensuality and charm from every pore of their persona. If you wish to find out more about him and his projects, do search for him on Facebook, and check out this YouTube link as well as his own website at www.zaldivar.info. He will amaze you, enchant you and make you cry.

“Where do I begin…

I met Nina almost ten years ago when she walked into an audition for one of my student films at NYU. She walked into the room and we were all blinded and not because we were young and impulsive (which we were) but because she has such a gentle air about her that you feel like you are sitting by a flowing brook when she is beside you. I cant imagine what that guy in the subway did (I will buy the book) but he certainly missed his stop.

I am a man. I am single. I have dated men and women. In the end, it is all the same. The single, most important realization I had in the last few years happened when I read a buddist monks’ musing on hope. In the West we have been taught that hope is the thing that will get you through. As long as there is hope, not all is lost. Right? Well, not quite. Zen presents a different idea of hope. The monk I speak about wrote that hope strangles possibility. Hope is destructive because it does not allow you to see what you have in front of you. You are so busy focusing on what you want or what you need, what you hope to get, that you miss the moment and the possibilities that may present to yourself at any given time.

I am trying to let go of my expectations… what I am required to be and do as a man. To be as a man. It is difficult to undo those imprints, but I think that when Nina says that she saw a light in the eyes of that man in the subway that made her follow him half-way around the world, she speaks for all of us. That light was hers reflected back at her, indeed. It is what she hoped. And hope will make us blind to the moment.

I wish that I am able to be present. Right now. Right here. At ease with myself. Being alone is not bad. I am the person who knows me best… and judges me the hardest. All of you guys out there, lets try to stop trying to be men and just be. Be honest. Be vulnerable. Be present. It’ll make it so much easier for all of us in the end.

I would love to hear more thoughts.”

I recently attended a special event at Bloomingdales and was blown away by some of the food served. The favorite of the crowd that evening was “Village Pourhouse”, which served quesadillas with a rocking guacamole, banana pancakes with chocolate syrup and homemade potato chips like you have never tasted. Turns out, they are in the East Village, which makes them even more fabulous and hip! And they have a great beer bar, for all those evening when food just isn’t enough. Check out their website at Pourhousenyc.com.

If you should one day be in the mood for a tattoo or a piercing, then the ONLY place to go is New York Adorned, on Second Avenue. They recently opened a new location in Brooklyn, so don’t ever accuse them of being uncosmopolitan. Their cleanliness and service, as well as the quality of their jewelry, is unequaled in NYC. For more info and their online collection, to tickle your fancy, go to NY Adorned.

And finally, right next door to NY Adorned, is a fantastic Moroccan store with a variety of fabulous home furnishings as well as clothing and jewelry. They have the largest collection of Berber rugs I have seen outside of Morocco. The name of the shop is Timbuktu, and it is located on Second Avenue. For more info, google their name, but be aware that they don’t currently have a website. N-joy!

Now that fall is here, it’s time to explore the neighborhoods around us, in our own cities. I published this personal guide to the East Village back in June, but the neighborhood really is worth talking about twice. Walk around it, while the weather still permits it and enjoy the feeling of it. And anyway, there is nothing more rewarding than discovering that the most exotic, wonderful things aren’t worlds away, but right in our own backyard.

Getting There:

The quickest and most optimal way is to take the 6 train to Astor Place or the R train to 8th Street, then walk across Astor Place, maybe stop at one of the two Starbucks in the square and then proceed down to Third Ave, making a left and a quick right to Stuyvesant Place, a little tiny corner of a road, to 9th Street going east. For more info go to the MTA’s website.

Where to Shop and Where to Eat:

You can follow this particular walk I have put together, where I have tried to avoid zig-zagging around as much as possible, or you can simply search for your favorite spots and divide this up into several trips. Once you discover the East Village, you will want to come back again and again. It’s probably the reason they have built on nearly every square inch of the place, since people visit it and end up wanting to live there.

On 9th Street, to the right walking towards Second Ave, there is a wonderful Japanese supermarket, the Sunrise Mart, just a short elevator ride to the second floor, and the delightful Panya sweets shop next door sells delicious sweet buns filled with fragrant cream. They even make a type of “Mont Blanc” - made with chestnut puree and whipped cream - that is to die for.

Continuing on 9th Street, at the corner of Second Ave, one can stop for something chocolatey at Max Brenner. If you are like me, you are always in the mood for something containing cocoa! It is a bit pricey, but worth a visit inside and, at least, a taste. Across the street is PharmaCare, where I buy most of my face oils and supplements. Then, continue on 9th Street and hit all the stores between Second and First Aves, an eclectic mix of second-hand clothing, Tibetan and Thai artifacts and even a witchcraft shop near First, on the north side of the street, which has been a staple in the neighborhood for nearly 20 years. Still on 9th, between First and Ave A, is my favorite used furniture shop, “The Upper Rust”. The owner, Kevin, is personable, very helpful and blessed with exquisite taste.

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With the fall season so many diverse cultural events come to NYC. Shows and exhibits are opening left and right and a few truly stand out for me. An absolute must is the “India: Public Places/Private Spaces” photography and video art show at the Newark Museum. For more info click on NewarkMuseum.org, where you will find links to transportation and general information for getting there, as it is closer and easier than you think. I took the NJ Transit train to Newark’s Broad Street station which is literally around the corner from the museum. It’s a quick 20 minute ride from Manhattan and a 5 minute walk from the station to Washington Park, which is where the museum is located. Do check out their gift shop, which has beautiful items as well as a fantastic catalogue for the exhibit. And while there, do see their Tibetan Arts galleries and their jewelry show titled “Objects of Desire”.

Then, Asia Society on the Upper East Side just opened the exhibit “The Arts of Kashmir” which shows all the different religions that have molded the history of this volatile yet naturally beautiful part of South Asia. I never imagined so much Buddhist art to have come from Kashmir, which one automatically equates with Islam, so do enlighten yourselves and check it out. While still on the Buddhism subject, the Rubin Museum of Art, a precious little gem of a place with a fantastic Himalayan Arts collection, is running an exhibit on Bon, the other Tibetan religion. Similar in style and ideas to Buddhism, Bon has different Gods, a separate set of Lamas and wonderful, Mandala-like colorful wheels made of thread, which have a similar flavor to the Native American “Dream Catchers”. Again, a couple of shows not to be missed.

Check out “The Darjeeling Limited” a charming film made even more poignant by actor Owen Wilson recent troubles. The story of three brothers who run into havoc while in India, the film has amazing photography, a good script and it is directed by Wes Anderson, the hot director of the moment. If you want to catch his American Express commercial, click on the YouTube link. Me, I’ll see the movie for Adrien Brody, a personal favorite!

Support “the Power of Pink” campaign going on right now at Bloomingdales. You might have already received a $25 coupon in the mail, if you have their store credit card, otherwise simply ask for one at the Information counter of your local Bloomies. It is a campaign to raise a $25,000 donation for The Breast Cancer Research Foundation and a chance for you to save 25 bucks on an outfit or shoes of your choice from the store. I call that a “Win Win” situation!

Since I am running the Florence adventure, I wanted to share a couple of Italian restaurants in NYC. Let me preface it by saying that it’s hard to find authentic Northern Italian food in the city. There are the upscale eateries of Bay Ridge, namely Areo and Tuscany Grill and the tourist infested spots of Little Italy, like La Mela and Umberto’s Clam House. But for serious Italian food, Mario Batali takes the prize. Babbo, Otto Pizzeria and Lupa are all great culinary experiences, if you can stand the prices and the long wait. Truly worth it, though. On the very high end, is the phenomenal Osteria del Circo, run by the children of Le Cirque’s Sirio Maccioni. Do feel free to write in with you own suggestions, as I usually do cook Italian at home and am therefore not as adept at finding great spots serving my country’s cuisine. N-joy!

When I first started this blog, I had chosen the name “HappilyUnmarried.com” to make it easier for readers to find me, shorter typing when entering the URL and because I didn’t want to use the same name as my manuscript, to avoid confusion. But when I applied for the domain name, I was surprised to find that there was already a website out there by that title. At the time, it was non-functioning and on its homepage had an image of a crumpled beer can, with the words “The guys from Happily Unmarried would like you to know that the website is currently under construction and will be coming back to you shortly” or something similar. That only tweaked my interest further and I found the idea that someone else, especially of the opposite sex, was using the name quite promising and intriguing. Then, I forgot about it. Until last month, when a friend sent me an email with a link to www.happilyunmarried.com and the message “Check it out, it sounds like the male equivalent of you!” Well, as it turned out, the “people” (they are being very secretive about their true identities!) behind the website are really cool, they sell fantastically creative items through their shops all over India, and recently started to do so online as well. Do check it out, for the male - I still have a hunch they are all men, since there isn’t a sari, bindi or a pair of earrings to be found among their merchandise - prospective of being Happily Unmarried. In their own words - and I quote - “Although we love your site name we just think ours is more realistic” referring to the fact that they are actually selling something! OK, so they have a wicked sense of humor but when in India, do check out their Goa shop. A great reason to go there and party on….

Following is a great recipe for the coming hot, summer months. In Northern Italy it is traditionally made with veal slices, but I find it much easier and guilt-free (no baby cows killed!) done with smoked turkey breast slices. The kind you can get at any deli counter of any supermarket, of any city, is great. This also makes it one of the quickest dishes to prepare, since we single girls need time for the many other activities in our lives. The flavors of the tuna/mayo cream with the texture of the turkey slices makes it one of the most delicious dishes, and quite gourmet looking if you have guests over. AND, if you are like me - the utilities’ company recently sent over a technician to make sure my gas meter wasn’t broken, since it has not registered any activity in months - then this recipe is for you!

Turkey Tonnato

25 slices of smoked turkey breast - thinly sliced
1 can of tuna in olive oil, drained of the oil
1 teaspoons of capers, drained of the vinegar
1 tablespoon of white wine vinegar
1 tablespoon of fresh lemon juice
a tiny piece of lemon zest
1/4 cup of mayonnaise - ready made
2 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil
salt, pepper to taste
parsley for garnish

Lay all the turkey slices on a serving platter, leaving a small space in the center, for the tuna sauce. Place the remaining ingredients in a food processor. By now, you should all know about the passion I feel for the Magic Bullet, an incredible blender/food processor/girl’s best friend all rolled into one appliance. It blends smoothies, makes whipped cream, guacamole, and I even grind my coffee beans in it every morning. It is available in department stores such as Macy’s or online at BuytheBullet.com.
Once the mixture has the consistency of a soft mousse, add it to the center of the platter. Add the parsley with your own special flair. This dish is best served once it has been in fridge for a couple of hours and will go well with a nice loaf of Italian bread. Serves two, or one for a couple of meals! You should drink a nice Pinot Grigio with it, like Santa Margherita or the likes.

Panzanella

This is a nice recipe for right now, when the fresh, farmer’s market tomatoes are on their way out, a little too ripe perhaps. The juicier the tomato, the better the recipe. For the cucumber, I like the Persian ones, they are small and nearly seedless, and the skin is not going to sit on your stomach for days, like the regular cucumbers’.

100 grams of day-old - even two days old! - bread, about two small rolls
1 red onion
1 large, ripe tomato
1 small Persian cucumber or 1/2 a larger one
some basil
a sprinkle of vinegar
4 tbls extra virgin olive oil, plus to taste
salt and pepper to taste

This is the kind of recipe that gets better each time you make it. What it needs, more than exact measurements, is interpretation. Some people add garlic, some leave out the pepper, some put a little hotness into it, by adding a bit of peperoncino. It’s all up to you. Dice the bread and place it in some water until softened. Then take all the water out of it, by squeezing it in your hand and crumple it in a bowl. Add the tomato, chopped and seeded, slice the onion and add it to the bowl, add about six basil leaves, salt, pepper and olive oil. When ready to serve, sprinkle with vinegar, lightly, and add more oil if necessary. Serves two, or one a couple of times!

For a bit of authentic Italian flavor here in NYC, it’s just not that easy. There are the upscale eateries of Bay Ridge, namely Areo and Tuscany Grill and the tourist infested spots of Little Italy, like La Mela and Umberto’s Clam House. But for serious Italian food, Mario Batali takes the prize. Babbo, Otto Pizzeria and Lupa are all great culinary experiences, if you can stand the prices and the long wait. Truly worth it, though. On the very high end, is Osteria del Circo, run by the children of Le Cirque’s Sirio Maccioni. Do feel free to write in with you own suggestions, as I usually do cook Italian at home and am therefore not as adept at finding great spots serving my country’s cuisine.

Check out the products of the Antica Farmacia di S. Maria Novella at LAFCO in NYC. They are located on Lafayette, between Prince and Houston, and they are worth a trip, due to their beautifully scented shop. There are other “franchises” of the products around the US, so do check out S. Maria Novella’s website for more info.

Get a manicure and pedicure in a bright fuschia-red polish just like Lindsay Lohan’s in “Georgia Rules”. YES, I did see the movie and NO it is not stupid. It’s actually pretty cute and both Ms. Lohan and Ms. Fonda are very elegant women and fun to watch. But back to the manicure subject. My favorite spot in the city is Jin Soon, which luckily has three locations in Manhattan: East Village, West Village and Upper East Side. Check out their website at JinSoon.com. And choose Essie’s Plumberry to get a fantastically fun color, on both your fingers and toes. A true attention grabber and guaranteed mood lifter for you and whoever else gets to see it!

Do check out the upcoming Deepavali (AKA Diwali) celebrations in your city. Deepavali is the Indian Festival of Lights,which symbolizes the victory of good over evil. Ghee - butter - lamps are lit as a sign of celebration and hope for humankind. This year the actual date fall on November 9th, but it is celebrated up to a month earlier. Regardless of your beliefs, it is a great time to pray to Lord Ganesh, the Elephant Headed God, who is worshiped as the remover of obstacles. Don’t we all have some obstacles we’d like to remove!! YES, and in addition, the Diwali celebrations and fairs usually include some rocking Indian food, music and dancing. Here in NYC, it is being held on October 14th at the South Street Seaport. Click here for more info and hours.

And finally, if you are a girl, start your own silver charm bracelet. Guys, you can do it too, it’s just that it will look a bit… how do I say this kindly… WEIRD! But for us women it’s a cool and quite inexpensive way to keep track of our travels and not stock up on useless knickknacks but rather only on one big (little in size!) item. I started mine in Florence many years ago, and today I count around 45 little charms from all over the world, which combined make a joyous little twinkle noise whenever I move my hand. Start with a sturdy yet lightweight silver bracelet, with medium links, so you can attach the charms easily and by yourself, which saves a lot of money. Buy sterling attachment links from your local craft/jewelry shop - I got mine from Beads of Paradise on 17th Street - and then wherever you go, pick up a single silver charm. It’s not cheating if you find more than one or choose to pick up a couple at an antique market, as those old ones sometimes have pigment or movement which make them way more fun! Before long, you’ll have your own, personal heirloom, which is unique and totally yours! N-joy!

This is my own personal Florence. As some of you may have read in my “About” page, I was born in the magnificently touristic Italian city of Firenze and moved to the US as a teenager. But writing a fun, colorful, enticing itinerary about my hometown has been very difficult for me. Far be it for me to ever compare myself to either of the following best-selling authors, but unlike Nobel Prize recipient Orhan Pamuk, who wrote the instructive, romantic and well thought out book “Istanbul” about his birth city, and Suketu Mehta who describes his own Bombay so efficiently and magically in “Maximum City”, I found myself at a loss for words when I thought of Firenze. Until… I started thinking of the food, the shops, the churches, the tiny street filled to the brim with history, and finally the following column started coming alive. So take this journey with me, to the historic city of my childhood, but also the classy town of my adulthood. A couple of bits of advice. Don’t use the money exchange bureaus while in Florence but opt for the much simpler and monetarily convenient ATM machines. Just stock up on Euros on Fridays, as the machines typically run out of cash during the weekends. And try to walk everywhere in Florence, it’s just so pleasant and convenient. N-joy!

HOW TO GET THERE
The trip from the US to Rome is the easy part. All major US airlines fly from either JFK or Newark, as well as other East Coast cities, to Rome’s Fiumicino Airport and the prices are never too extravagant. Just check Expedia and Orbitz to get an idea. But these days it is becoming a bit more difficult to catch a connecting flight to Florence with Alitalia - which has a near-monopoly on internal flights. There is Meridiana Airlines, but really, it’s nearly the same as ground services depend on Alitalia personnel, the company is pricey and they offer few connections. The problem with Alitalia is that the airline has been up for sale for a while, with no takers or even offers thus far. So, they keep cutting services, the employees go on strike constantly and when I went to Florence recently, they substituted the direct segment Roma - Firenze with a Roma - Pisa flight about an hour later, and then a bus ride to Florenze from Pisa. The bus took forever since baggage claim in Pisa took hours for all the displaced passengers and a simple one hour connecting flight became a journey of five hours. It was not a pleasant experience and I would simply suggest to avoid taking a flight and going the train route instead. There is a fantastic shuttle train from the airport to the central train station in Rome - Stazione Termini - and then the Eurostar is a fast and direct 1.30 hour train ride to Florence station - S. Maria Novella - with great countryside views to boot. One word of advice, beware of the Gypsies and various shady characters which abound at the stations, but they do know how to scope out their victims. If you are alert, you won’t be that appealing to them. For info on trains click on Treni Italia website.

WHERE TO STAY
I have tried a few different places. You really can’t go wrong with hotels in Florence, especially if you choose one in the center. You won’t spend that much time there and ultimately, give or take a few amenities, they are all located in older, charming buildings. I can recommend the Hotel Della Signoria and the Hermitage Hotel, the first being on the cheaper side, while the second can put a dent in your wallet. But it is lovely and, as described in their own website, intimate and romantic. My suggestion is to find a good deal on Orbitz and you won’t be disappointed. Click on Google Map for a great google map of Florence.

WHERE TO EAT
Once you taste the food in Florence, you’ll wish you had booked your trip for a much, much longer sojourn. The city is a gastronomic mecca, with food shops and restaurants to last you for months, without ever having to eat the same dish twice. One must-do is a trip to the Mercato Centrale, the main food market near San Lorenzo. Inside, you’ll find hundreds of merchants selling delicacies such as fresh mozzarella filled with truffle cream, bresaola - a cured beef sliced thin and traditionally served with lemon juice, olive oil and shaved parmesan - sheep milk cheeses from all areas of Italy, schiacciata - a medium flat bread which is brushed with olive oil and baked in a pizza oven - and even small casual food stalls serving traditional Tuscan dishes. Usually, when in Florence, I make it a point to go to the Mercato Centrale at least once, and I take back to the hotel my lunch/dinner for that day. It’s not difficult to make a fantastic meal out of mozzarella, fresh tomatoes and basil from the vegetable stalls upstairs in the market, a nice soft schiacciata, some Italian tuna fillets, a few carciofini - steamed artichokes preserved in vinegar and olive oil - and a bottle of Chianti. All can be found at the market, and if you have ever heard an Italian say “food just taste better in Italy” well, they are right! Even the small bottle of industrial production extra virgin olive oil that you’ll buy to sprinkle on the bresaola and parmesan dish will taste better than the fanciest olive oil from Whole Foods. Seriously! The Mercato Centrale opens early, around 8 a.m. and closes around 2 in the afternoon. Anyway, beside making your own meal, my favorite restaurant in Florence is “La Casalinga” a casual, very old establishment directly across from the Santo Spirito church on Via dei Michelozzi. The tables have thick white paper as tablecloths, the menus are handwritten - and I don’t mean calligraphy either, the waiters are rough around the edges at best, but the food is always fresh and the closest to Tuscan home cooking I have ever tasted. Seasonal must-tries are the Panzanella in the summer, made with tomatoes, onions, garlic and bread and the Ribollita in the fall and winter, a soup made with a local type of cabbage and white beans. Their pasta is also excellent but their forte is the lasagna. If they are serving polenta cooked any which way when you go there, by all means, snatch it up. It’s not usually made but it is absolutely amazing on a cool autumn day. Another great dish, for carnivores, is the Faraona, a small, skinny local chicken, roasted to perfection and best eaten with a side order of oven roasted potatoes. Anyway, as you see, I could on forever about this place. If you find that you crave a classier, more sophisticated meal, then try the “Cantinetta Antinori”, on Via Tornabuoni in the Antinori palace. In the fall, their porcini pasta is supreme and all year round, their vitel tonne’ is delicious. I’ve included the recipe this week, but substituted the thinly cut veal with store bought turkey breast, as the taste doesn’t really change much, and it’s an easier dish this way. For more on the Cantinetta, click Antinori’s website and then click on the restaurant’s name. OK, back to eating options, there is also a well known tourist place, which still manages to serve excellent food, called the “Buca degli Orafi” right across from the Ponte Vecchio, on the right, in the little tiny square off the Lungarno degli Archibusieri . In the spring, their famous dish is “Pasta con Fiori di Zucca” - with zucchini flowers. It’s delicious and promises to make a zucchini flower addict out of you. Luckily, if you live near a farmer’s market, they have become widely available in the last couple of years, so you’ll never have to go without. Once you are done with lunch, and you might discover some of your own favorite spots, you will want a little dessert. I suggest ice cream at what I consider the best ice cream shop in the world - “Perche No!” - literally “Why Not!” Their shop is hidden away on a side street, far enough from those tacky tourist traps which offer huge mounds of unattractively pink and green ice cream. “Perche No!” has chestnut puree, rice ice cream, various fruit flavors like watermelon, blackberry and fig, incredibly dark chocolate and stracciatella - a vanilla base with bits of chocolate throughout, which is my personal favorite. The shop is located on the Via dei Tavolini, near Via Calzauioli, about a block to the right of Coin, the department store, if you are facing the shop. Their website is Perche’ No Firenze but beware that their English translations are a little creative… For nightlife, there are several places where it it lovely to sit and sip a Prosecco, like “Rivoire” in Piazza della Signoria, the two cafe’ in Piazza della Repubblica, or even “Harry’s Bar” on the Lungarno Corsini. For hipper, younger nightlife, try Piazza Santo Spirito.

SIGHTSEEING
Alas, Firenze is another one of those cities which requires a bit of sightseeing, along with the eating, shopping, drinking and all that other good stuff. I won’t bore you with too many details but rather with a little mini-tour. Start out by visiting some churches, which should include the Duomo, all of it, the SS Apostoli which is the oldest church in Florence, but only opens in the afternoon, and Orsanmichele. Then go to the Palazzo Pitti, and visit the galleries there. Then hit the Giardini di Boboli - Boboli Gardens, and if it is open, have a nice cappuccino at the Kaffeehaus, the coffee house located inside an ancient pavillon. Of course, you cannot leave Florence without a visit to the Uffizi galleries. Make sure to catch the famous Botticelli paintings as they are much more incredibly beautiful live. Then, if you still want some more, do step inside the Palazzo Vecchio, in all its Medici splendor, and lastly, see the original Michelangelo’s David in the Museo dell’Accademia delle Belle Arti. One last really great sightseeing must is taking a taxi up to Piazzale Michelangelo and seeing all of Florence from this strategic spot and then walking back down to town using the Costa San Giorgio, a very special, narrow road which takes you all the way back to the Ponte Vecchio. But do wear comfy rubber-soled shoes or you’ll curse me out all the way down, I promise! That should really take care of the sightseeing. Now, onto more serious business…

WHERE TO SHOP
Ah, “Dulcis in Fundo” or the traditional Italian way of saying “saving the best for last”. Florence used to be an incredible shopping mecca when Italy hadn’t yet switched over to the Euro. Nowadays, the merchandise is just as beautiful, but the prices have become a bit steep, especially if using the dollar, which now seems to be worth next to nothing EVERYWHERE! I mean, I remember the days when I would be asked to pay in dollars at the markets in India and that got me a great discount. Now, when they hear me speak Italian they ask for Euros, worldwide and when I offer dollars, I see prices shoot up. But there are still great things to be found at reasonable prices in Florence. Underwear, for one. For great quality little nothings, cotton tank tops trimmed with fine lace, Cosabella products which never make it to the US, and great patterned hose, go to Quercioli & Lucherini on Via Porta Rossa 45. They are a helpful, young owners’ operated “foundation” shop which won’t leave you disappointed. I stocked up on Cosabella bras and a couple of “bodies” - thin leotards with snaps which are very convenient during the cold NYC winters. Even with the inconvenient exchange, I still spent much less than I would in the US. For fancy shopping, the street to hit is Via Tornabuoni, where Prada, Ferragamo and YSL are located. On Via della Vigna Nuova and Via della Vigna Vecchia are also some upscale boutiques, Etro being my favorite for window shopping. Also try Luisa Via Roma, on… duh… Via Roma, which carries offbeat designers such as Commes de Garcons and Costume National. These are definitely the top of the line shops. Not for casual purchases. But, just down the street from Luisa is my new favorite Sisley, truly a find with their well constructed and fresh suits, their cute and feminine dresses and good accessories. Different in style from what the Sisley stores sell here in the US. I would forego Zara while in Florence, as the store is on various levels with lots of stairs and the stuff just costs too much. For perfumes and creams and beauty essentials, try Aline, which has two locations, one on the Via del Corso, near Piazza della Repubblica, and one right in the Piazza della Signoria. Also be sure to check out the Farmacia di Santa Maria Novella, on Via della Scala, behind the Piazza Stazione. It is in a wonderfully scented and dark ancient building and worth a visit. The products are also sold in the US - see The List for this week - but they do cost more here, and anyway, some things just aren’t available to US buyers. For true pharmacy items and natural creams and soaps, check out the Farmacia del Cinghiale on Piazza del Mercato Nuovo. This Piazza is also where the old Straw Market was held and where leather and souvenirs are still sold. Speaking of markets, before I forget, in the same area as the central food market is also the Mercato di San Lorenzo, which is great for leather gloves, fun little items and even leather jackets, of all types and prices. The Ponte Vecchio is the place to go for gold jewelry, with Piero Fallaci having the best prices. This would be a good place to start that charm bracelet you always wanted! There are two department stores in Firenze, La Rinascente, which is not very exciting, but still worth a run through, and Coin, which does have decent fashions and sometimes good shoes. Gerard is an always ahead of fashion clothing place on Via delle Terme, which runs into Piazza della Signoria. Raspini is also on the corner and has great, though pricey, shoes. Ask the sales force inside Gerard for their “Loft” location, near Piazza Duomo. OK, all that is left for me to write now is… N-joy!