Yes, I know you have all been waiting anxiously for the follow-up to Part 1 of my very personal guide to Bombay. Some of you even threatened to hold you breath until the column was published. But no need… Here it goes. So, last week I took you through the ins and outs of the preparations necessary to truly appreciate and live your visit to Bombay to the maximum. This week, I’ll try to stick to the cold, hard facts. Keep in mind that typically I am not your girl for a lot of sightseeing, but even that in this city is not your average, corny and overcrowded with tourists in boy scouts outfits kind of deal. As far as shopping goes, there are a few choice destinations and a lot of side places to hit. I say, stick to the basic, high end shops and browse through only a couple of staples road markets. And for food and nightlife, well, as is true in NYC, the trendy places change almost weekly, so I’ll try to point you in the right direction but I suggest also doing a little investigating yourself. Go ahead, ask that cool looking guy sitting in the lobby of your hotel smoking a cigarette. Or approach that hip looking Indo-chic girl with her mobile glued to her ear. It might not only get you going to the right spot, but with a bit of an entourage as well… Do check out Bombay Part 1 for details on where to stay, required reading before heading to Bombay, etc.

SIGHTSEEING

Perhaps this is true of most seaside cities, but I believe there is nothing like Bombay seen from a boat. And the best kind of boat is one of those inexpensive launch tours that take you to Elephanta Caves from the Gateway of India. There is something magical about viewing the Taj Mahal Hotel disappear in the distance… It just feels like Bollywood all the way. Never mind that most films on or about Bombay use this location in the pivotal scene of the movie. Off the top of my head, I know Irfan Khan gets beaten up here while John Abraham falls in love, in different movies of course. Then, the Muslim girl/Hindu boy love story of Mani Ratman’s “Bombay” is cemented right in front of the Gateway of India and even 70s heartthrob Shashi Kapoor is seen walking out into Apollo Bunder in an important scene of the Merchant and Ivory classic “Bombay Talkie”. Is it any wonder that taking this short day trip always takes me to a different world?! The way to do it is quite simple, though not always painless. Get yourself down to Gateway of India, around 9 to 10 a.m., possibly on a weekday. I have done it on a weekend as well, but it’s a lot more crowded and once at Elephanta, you might have tons of Indian tourists taking your photo in front of the carvings… Mindboggling. Anyway, find a hawker that seems cuter/smarter/louder/more personable than the others. You’ll have plenty of choice and whatever is your preferred standard of selection, go for it! Then, pay for your round-trip ticket, should less than 200 rupees (I paid around 150, but prices change almost weekly…) and have someone from the boat help you onboard. THIS is the tricky part, as the boats are all tied together, and usually the ticket you’ll have bought will be for the very last one… six other launches off. So, arm yourself with nerves of steel - and BTW, a nice pair of rubber soled shoes doesn’t hurt on this occasion - and jump from boat to boat to boat, until you can get a seat on your chosen vessel. I usually sit in the back, since it makes for a good view going out, and is less windy and noisy than the front of the launches. Once at Elephanta, there is a minimal entry fee to pay, and about 150 steep steps to climb up to the caves, laden with various peddlers of every useless souvenir you can possibly imagine. If you are thinking “Your Name on a Grain of Rice” and “Miniatures of Hindu Gods on Bodhi Tree Leaves” then you are absolutely right!! But the sellers’ bantering does help pass the time and acts a bit like an Ipod on a long run: distracts you from just how far you still have to go to get to your goal. Caves aficionados claim that Elephanta’s aren’t as beautiful as many of the other ones throughout India. But the greatness of these caves doesn’t lie only in their Hindu significance - they are said to be the abode of Lord Shiva and the Trimurti of Elephanta is truly worthy of its Unesco World Heritage title - rather in the whole experience. A simple day trip from Bombay, and one is transported to a faraway world, filled with confrontational monkeys, guards with long sticks and even longer mustaches and countless families enjoying a day away from the hustle and bustle of the city. It’s a must-see on any visit to Bombay. Once you have spent the day beholding the beauty of the caves and have set foot on dry land again, then treat yourself to a drink inside the Taj Hotel. Try out either the Harbour Bar or the Sea Lounge for some overpriced - albeit WELL worth their price - drinks.
So, on day 1 of your sightseeing tour of Bombay, you will have hit FOUR different attractions. WOW! On a different day, I suggest passing Flora Fountain, on the way to Colaba Causeway for shopping. I also would try to ask the taxi driver to show you Shivaji Terminus - renamed from the English Victoria Terminus - which today is still one of the busiest train stations in India. Working upwards from South Bombay, check out Chowpatty Beach after 5 p.m. which is around the time when your tummy will be needing a snack. Try to steer clear of anything that might have been sitting around for too long, but go instead for a hot, buttery Pav Bhaji, a soft bun filled with spicy potato mixture, the safest - and possibly the tastiest! - of options. If you are staying in Juhu, a similar experience is Juhu Beach, though Chowpatty is the original fun spot and must be experienced at least once. Oh, almost forgot about Crawford Market… It’s an interesting outing and the architecture is quite impressive, but don’t spend too much of your precious time there. In Breach Candy, on the other side from Chowpatty, check out the Mahalaxmi Temple, one of the most famous Hindu temples of Bombay. On the road up to Bandra, you’ll notice Haji Ali, and impressive mosque which boasts a dargah - tomb - built in 1431. The days to visit are any when the tide is low, as the narrow, rail-less passageway is swept by the ocean during high tide. The popular worship days are Thursdays and Fridays, though be prepared for large crowds as it is estimated that as many as 40,000 pilgrims visit the shrine weekly and the highest concentration is on those two days. Up in Bandra, check out Mount Mary’s Catholic Church, to complete your idea of how religiously diverse this city really is. If you are lucky enough to stay in Juhu, then finish each and every one of your afternoons in this city by taking a leisurely walk on Juhu Beach. Drink some fresh coconut water, eat some roasted corn - insist on one that is cooked fresh for you - and even sit at one of the seaside stands to taste a dosa or some pav bhaji, while watching families stroll and young hotties jog. Truly, even for a demanding girl like me, Bombay never runs out of fun!

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On plane trips I usually enjoy reading women’s magazines. It’s a luxury I never make time for at home, so for a flight back from Los Angeles recently, I bought myself a copy of Marie Claire. I can always count in it being a thought provoking and well written publication and the articles tend to be filled with substance instead of those typical “How to get the man of your dreams” and “50 ways to please a man” essays. Not that those articles don’t have a place and a time, but once you have read lets say…hum… 5 in your lifetime, then there is nothing more to really learn from them. Without disappointment, May 2008 Marie Claire had me hocked right from the Editor’s Note “You’re All That!”, on page 11.

Editor-in-Chief Joanna Coles writes a compelling argument for successful women to behave less like bimbos. I mean, a woman who can win an Oscar, or a Nobel prize or even command the attention of a room-full of men for a business presentation should never feel like she has to behave less intelligently to be accepted. Yet, in many instances, that’s just what we women do. So her short article had me thinking… I am guilty of diminishing myself at times, to make my strong self more acceptable to the men around me. I have been known to giggle coyly when the building’s handyman makes a mistake and I need to correct him - just so HE won’t feel bad about my comment - and I have kept my mouth shut when deep inside I knew some man I cared about was belittling me. Definitely “guilty as charged”.

Anyway, thank goodness for that one man who has made it painfully clear that he won’t stand for “meekly Nina” but only wants to enjoy the vivacity of tough, wisecracking, at times even obnoxiously honest ME. Before you go on thinking that he is the new man in my life, WRONG! But he is the one person who, from our very first meeting a couple of years ago, has tested, poked and pushed the limit to make it impossible for me to remain quiet and witless. I thank him and Ms Coles for having shown me just how much more enjoyable life is when I speak my mind and avoid playing games. So, my friendly advice for the week is… STAND UP AND BE A WOMAN! Not a girl, not a gal, not even a female, but a true, strong, self-assured Woman, with a capital “W”.

“Sex and the City” madness has started. TV stations are planning all-day marathon showings of the series and the organized, paid tours of the city, as seen through the eyes of Carrie, Miranda, Charlotte and Samantha, are nearly all sold-out. Get into the swing of things by checking out the piece I wrote for online publication Chic Today.

The Metropolitan Museum is running a fabulous costume exhibit titled “Superheroes: Fashion and Fantasy” which runs through September 1st, 2008. I say, don your fastest shoes, leap over the largest puddles left by this last bout of rain and fly over to the Met for some totally guiltless fun!

This Memorial Day, if you are in the city, check out one of the B.R. Guest restaurants around NYC. Including favorites such as Dos Caminos, Blue Water Grill and Isabella’s, they are all offering specials and even including some barbequed items as crowd-pleasers. Many of the spots will have their outside space set up and just in time for the promised temps in the 80s on Monday.

Shop, shop and then shop some more. All the department stores have their prices slashed down at least 40 percent. I’ll be checking out Barneys and Bergdorfs and Saks, for starters. But then I think I’ll move down to Soho and seeing what J. Crew and Anthropology have to offer…

OK, as far as movies opening this weekend, two in particular caught my eye. Primarily, because in honor of all the men and women who served, are serving and will continue to serve our country in the armed forces, I wish to view a film that makes me think. About war, about peace and about our world. So, perfect title, black comedy “War Inc.” with Ben Kingsley, John Cusack, Hilary Duff and Marisa Tomei is a must-see because of its Middle East location and anti-war message. Not to mention, the amazing all-star cast! And I want to check out “The Children of Huang Shi” with Jonathan Rhys-Meyers and Michelle Yeoh, for its heartwarming, hopeful message of one man saving the world, one orphaned child at a time. N-joy your weekend everyone and drive safely!

I have been really in mood for Bombay these last few weeks. It may be that the weather here in NYC has been less than spring-like… Or perhaps I miss Him, someone who always represented Bombay to me. That, in turn, makes me miss the city… Who knows. But anyway, I wish to share one of my own favorite pieces of writing, about my most beloved city on earth. Here we go, again…

OK, so this week’s adventure is about my favorite city in the world. Bombay. The most amazing place on earth, both fantastic and infuriating, invigorating and enervating, astoundingly rich and shockingly poor, home to the biggest and brightest movie industry on the planet - Bollywood. My secret dream in life - well, won’t be so secret anymore now - is to live there one day… A little, brightly decorated, high floor apartment up in Juhu, near the beach, so I can take walks on the sand every evening and partake of the fragrant roasted corn and fresh coconut water while watching the sun set over the Arabian Sea. Even the sunset is remarkable in Bombay. It goes just far enough to show off its red, fiery display and then disappears into the low clouds - pollution - barely short of the horizon. In the city of “NO” and “It’s Not Possible” even the sun plays hard to get. So, after writing all this, why do I personally love the city so much? First and foremost, it feels like… home. Surprisingly, when the chaos of rush hour forces you to spend two hours in a car/rickshaw to go the same distance which usually takes ten minutes tops, even when the attitude of most around you is cranky, at best, and even when the dirty air begins to clog up your nose so that breathing in and out of the mouth becomes dangerously inevitable, Bombay rocks! That one Muslim teenage boy, Salim, who sells the Mid Day newspapers on the side streets near Bandra Bandstand, doesn’t speak a word of English, nor I any Marathi. Yet he and I manage long, intricate conversations about politics and the most prominent members of the city’s social scene using hand gestures, eye expressions and a mixture of Hindi, Italian and laughter. Whenever someone pulls that most testing of answers “It will not be possible, Madam”, I relish snapping them back into the result I want by using just the right words, uttered in a calm yet firm tone of authority. This city, which is renowned for challenging the power of survival of everyone who comes to be in it, makes me feel like one of the keepers of its impenetrable secret. I remember the first time I visited Bombay, nearly ten years ago. All throughout my stay, I had this constant feeling that something amazing was happening just around the corner from me. I knew it was NOT happening where I was, but there was something spicy in the air that made me promise to myself that I would discover what IT was. Although I never found that single “secret”, I did find out a lot of what lies “just around the corner” in Bombay. So, take a stroll with me on a weekend getaway to this glamorously grungy city of my dreams. Oh, and by the way, the name itself - BOMBAY - is just so incredibly sexy!

REQUIRED READING

It is important to go to Bombay - OK Mumbai for those of you who wish to be politically correct with the Marathi pronunciation - well prepared. Let me preface this by pointing out that nothing can really prepare you for the sensory overload you are bound to experience in Bombay, but reading a couple of books and maybe skimming through a few newspapers and magazines will help you to get an idea of what to expect on the whole. The absolute bible for anyone who wants to visit Bombay, or simply craves a great read about the city, is Suketu Mehta’s “Maximum City - Bombay Lost and Found”. No other book has ever shed so much light on a single city as Mr. Mehta’s opus on the city of his youth, where he returned to live as an adult so he could discover it further. His work is what I personally refer back to, time and time again and I admit, though it isn’t in any way, shape or form a travel book, it has guided me through many a difficult situation. Consider it a preparatory course in behavior, expectations and attitude necessary to enjoy your trip to the very, hum… Maximum! I also recommend reading “Baumgartner’s Bombay” by Anita Desai. It is strictly fiction but Ms. Desai’s writing does convey the sense of the city in its fullness, down to the smells and sounds of the impossibly congested Colaba Causeway. I found her description of the city, as seen through the eyes of the elder Jewish-German “refugee” Baumgartner, very helpful, particularly in understanding which invisible lines a foreigner should never try to cross. Check out Amazon.com to purchase both of those titles. After the serious books, a quick glance at Indian newspapers, such as Mid Day, The Times of India - Mumbai edition ONLY, please! - and the Indian Express are a good lesson in local color. Click on AllYouCanRead.com for updated editions of Mid Day and Indian Express. Click on PressDisplay.com for the front pages of Times of India and other Bombay papers each and every day, though you’ll need to pay to read the entire edition. l personally ADORE the idea of newspapers online since it is so fantastically eco-friendly. Of course, pick up a couple of Bollywood gossip rags, such as Filmfare and Stardust, so you can catch up on all the hot filmi action. And last - but NOT to be forgotten - is Vogue India, which will singlehandedly make you Desi Chic enough to get into any hot restaurant of the moment and hot enough to fit into the understated yet trendy atmosphere of all luxury hotel restaurants, be it in Colaba, Nariman Point, Bandra or Juhu.

HOW TO GET THERE

Luckily, these days it is incredibly easy to fly over to Bombay from NYC for a quick shopping dash. Delta has a direct flight from JFK for around $960 and Continental offers a similar fare, give or take $20, leaving from Newark. I checked for the beginning of April, being flexible with dates, but rates don’t change all that much. I used to fly through Delhi, when Continental had not started its Mumbai route, but now it doesn’t really make any sense to lose the day in Delhi, unless you really wish to combine the two cities and pull a full shopping bonanza in the process. There are ways to arrive in Delhi and then depart from Bombay, with Continental, my all-time favorite airline. If you do choose to combine the two cities, I found the best national flights - for your Delhi/Mumbai segment - to be on Jet Airways. Somehow, this company is always cheaper and better serviced than the competition.

WHERE TO STAY

Ahhhhh, I am, in this case, the most spoiled of pampered travelers. In Bombay, I choose to stay only at the top - five-star plus - hotels, since the difference between those and the lower grade ones is like night and day. The two star Hotel Sea Side in Juhu is nicknamed the “Hotel Suicide” by the locals, which should help in giving you an idea… If you are going to be in the city of glitz and glamour - albeit with constantly busted sidewalks which make walking as perilous as it must have been in Kabul at the height of the Soviet war - you might as well treat yourself to the best. There are two options, as far as placement - meaning YOUR personal geographical placement. You can choose South Bombay - Colaba or Nariman Point - hence naturally going for the Taj Mahal Hotel or the Oberoi. Or, you can stay in Juhu, at the JW Marriott. The Ramada to its south and the Best Western Emerald just north of it are also acceptable, though not as fashionable a name or as desired a location. I mean, for Valentine’s Day brunch at the Marriott, I sat two tables away from my FAVORITE Bollywood hunk Riteish Deshmukh. It doesn’t get any better than that! Though I admit his fantastically full head of hair and sleek, golden, fluid body did distract me from the grandiose dessert spread included in the lavish buffet… But I digress! The JW Marriott runs about $400 a night, all taxes included and based on double occupancy. The rate, of course, does not change if you occupy it solo. Ramada and Best Western run respectively $260 and $140 - giving you some idea what to expect! - while the Taj Mahal is between $315 to $450, depending on the location of the room. The “Heritage” or Palace Wing is the most expensive, while the new rooms in the Tower are slightly more affordable. The Oberoi, with its adjoining Towers, also has a similar rate system, based on location of the rooms. Now, there is a third, though untried by yours truly, alternative and that is to stay midway, in Bandra, at the Taj Lands’ End, though not for the purpose of saving money, as their rooms start at the high $300s. I personally really enjoy the calm of returning to my hotel in Juhu in the evenings. Away from the hustle of South Bombay and with a cool, comfy room facing the Arabian Sea, it really does make all the day’s stress, from shopping and eating way too much, go away. Plus, there is nothing as invigorating as a late afternoon walk on Juhu Beach, surrounded by families and jogging Mumbaiwalle - Hindi for “people of Bombay” - with the quiet, warm evening wind running through your hair.

Anyway, Bombay is just too lengthy a subject to tackle in one go, so stay tuned for the next installment, where you’ll find all the eating, shopping and sightseeing stuff that dreams are made of. Till next time…

A couple of the entries for this week are timed. Meaning… they happen on Thursday, May 15th and then they are gone. So check those out first and don’t delay. You know I only write about stuff I think worthy. Have I ever led you astray?!

Indomix is one of my favorite shops in NYC. Their fashions are the perfect blend of Indian flair with a western sensitivity. They can be worn - and be admired - anywhere in the world. Bombay, NYC, Los Angeles, London… You name it, the outfit is guaranteed to make you a smash hit. So, check out their Payal Singhal Trunk Show on Thursday, between 3 and 8 p.m.. I would not miss it for the world!

My darling friend Val sent me the invite to the Culinary Center First Annual 2 for 1 event, at the Whole Foods on the Bowery. She swears by their classes and this seemed like the perfect way to try it out. Unfortunately, their “Baking with Agave Nectar” class this coming Saturday is completely sold out, but there is still hope for the “Artisanal American Cheese” one on Thursday. I say, at $25 for two, you simply cannot go wrong.

“Before the Rains” by Santosh Sivan and starring Rahul Bose, Nandita Das, Linus Roache and Jennifer Ehle has opened. It is currently playing at one of my favorite cinemas in Manhattan, The Paris on 58th Street. It’s a wonderful way to combine four of my favorite activities: films, shopping, eating and men… Hum… OK, let me explain. Start your afternoon by shopping that whole area around 57th Street, a mecca of great stores like Henry Bendel’s, Bergdorf’s and Barney’s. The three big Bs of NYC. Follow it with a casual meal at Mangia, on 57th between Fifth and Sixth. Then absolutely, positively, not to be missed, check out “Before the Rains” at The Paris, where you’ll be able to combine two of the activities: watching films and admiring handsome men… All in one sitting! For those of you who like the British blond type, there is refined hunk Linus Roache, who plays his part to absolute perfection. To those of us who like the British type but LOVE the sultriness of Bengali beauty Bose, then he shines magnificently as the character T.K. in this film. Something for everyone and a great afternoon to remember all around. N-joy!

This week it is truly dedicated to Valerie, my dear friend and one cool woman. She kept forwarding to me all these wonderfully inspiring links and sites, while I wallowed in my own deadline stress. The first recommendation is a film that I insist all must view. And following the film, you’ll be inspired to do something yourself. So I have included the link to the charity CARE, which was also Val’s idea.

You must rent the documentary “Beyond Belief” on Netflix. It is the true story of two 9/11 widows - strangers - who after forming a bond of grief following the loss of their husbands, then traveled to Afghanistan to meet women there also widowed by violence. I love anything that shows how alike we all are around the world, so this is a must-see in my view.

So, if the film and its message leaves you feeling helpless, don’t… You are not! There are plenty of ways to help your less fortunate counterparts, all around the globe. One way is the organization CARE so try it out and start being the change you want to see in this world.

My lovely friend Valerie recently forwarded to me an email from NYC chocolate factory Vere. Handmade, gluten-free and very low sugar, their chocolate is a great way to indulge without feeling guilty afterwards. Typically open on Fridays, from noon to 6 p.m., for chocolate tastings, a factory tour and purchases directly from the source, they have now added a new Thursday “Vere Vino” event.

On May 8th and 22nd, as well as June 5th and 19th, from 6 to 7.30, the general public is invited, for a fee of $50 per person, to attend wine and chocolate tastings. On those occasions, a great Spanish Rioja will paired with brownies and almond clusters, Veuve Clicquot will be paired with truffles and a Sandeman Port will pair up with Vere signature caramels. Plus, at the end of the evening, everyone will be given a little goodie bag of Veve chocolate products. To RSVP contact erika@veregoods.com or call 1.866.410.VERE.

For more info on the various products, Val’s favorites are their fleur de sel caramels, check out Vere Online .

N-joy!

This week my list is all about Must-Sees. I have been lucky enough to have stumbled across a few fantastic films in the last couple of months. Usually, one is fortunate to find two films in a six-month period that are actually enjoyable. I had nearly half a dozen in just under two months!! Some of the films are currently available on DVD, some will be opening soon at theater near you.

Tarsem’s “The Fall” is visually stunning, has an appealing set of characters and is overall very witty in its writing. I enjoyed the digitally reworked live locations in Rajastan, Indonesia and the Middle East, as well as the fantastical costumes in the fable storyline. I suggest seeing it in a large screen movie theater when it opens on May 9th.

Another film opening that same weekend will be Santosh Sivan’s “Before the Rains”. Once again, this is a visually stunning film, superbly acted by Indian multiplex hottie Rahul Bose as well as Linus Roache, Jennifer Ehle and Nandita Das. A character study into the depths of fear, loyalty and love, the ending will leave you breathless. It is a Merchant and Ivory production, which should give you some insight into the incredible quality of cinematography and acting at work here.

A film I rented a few months ago has managed to linger in my memory, inspiring a craving for repeated viewings since. Titled “No Smoking” and directed by talented writer/director Anurag Kashyap, it is a spellbinding story of what happens to a self-involved, unsympathetic man when he is convinced by friends and family to quit smoking. A true must-see, it has something for everyone. Those who don’t smoke, will have certainly come across some person like the main character - brilliantly played by Bollywood heartthrob John Abraham - and will identify with the strife his selfishness causes those who love him. Those who do smoke, watch out… This film might just manage to make a quitter out of you. But even if it doesn’t, it will wow you in the process. The brilliant soundtrack by Vishal Bhardwaj can now be heard playing constantly in my home. Available on DVD, at your local Hindi film shop or for rent at Netflix. BTW, the film has a fantastic website to boot. Check out the link above.

“Khoya Khoya Chand” - Lost Moon - is another wonderful Hindi film of recent months. Directed and written by Sudhir Mishra, who also directed and wrote “Chameli” - another of my personal must-sees - and “Calcutta Mail”, the film is wonderful at showing the good ol’ days of filmi Bombay. Superbly acted by Soha Ali Khan, Shiney Ahuja and Rajat Kapoor among others, with a romantic soundtrack to boot, it is guaranteed to make you dream with your eyes open.

“Mumbai Cutting: A City Unfolds” was shown at the IFFLA this past Sunday. Although initially it left me a bit ambivalent, the more I think about it, the more value I find in the film. A collection of eleven stories - directed by as many of today’s Hindi cinema hottest filmmakers - about Bombay, the film doesn’t sugar coat the truth of the most beautiful, yet most infuriating city on earth. Instead, it allows its stories to hit you in the face with their reality and crudeness. My favorite pieces were Sudhir Mishra’s “The Ball”, which captured onscreen the smells, sights and sounds of a night in Bombay, “Parcel” by actress-turned-director Revathi - about a young woman’s ready-for-anything desperation to get out of Bombay - and Anurag Kashyap’s “Pramodbhai”. This last piece made me weep uncontrollably in my seat and was rendered even more poignant by the director’s admission that the child playing the juvenile delinquent in the film is not an actor but an actual street kid. The release date is not yet set for this gritty and beautiful masterpiece but I’ll keep you updated when I know something more. Meanwhile, request it at your video store, online and check out its website above.

Once you have actually explored all that Singapore Changi Airport has to offer - see last week’s column - then do step outside and take a taxi to one of the most relaxing places on earth. Yes, Singapore itself is crime-free, hassle-free and filled to the brim with great shopping, eating and even sightseeing. Following are a few of my personal highlights. To create your own Singapore adventure, I suggest checking out their official tourism site.

WHERE TO STAY

Choose a good hotel on Orchard Road, which will make your stay more enjoyable. This location is central to nearly everything you will want to do in Singapore, and if you cannot walk somewhere, there is the MRT system of trains which is positively fool-proof. I stayed at the Singapore Marriott, hardly like some of the more luxurious Marriott properties I have been lucky enough to visit, but still quite pricey. I made sure never to have breakfast at the hotel, thus breaking one of my cardinal travel rules. But in Singapore there is just so much street food to try and I did partake of a few cappuccinos at the Starbucks right across from the hotel property. Do NOT get a package that includes breakfast in Singapore. It’s a waste of money and food. Singaporeans have way more than three meals a day and I suggest you do the same.

WHERE TO EAT

Since we are already on the subject, food is a highlight of Singapore. It’s cheap, it’s good, it’s as varied as the Singaporean culture, and it is available EVERYWHERE. All you need to do is use an underpass to cross the street, and voila! There’s food! My favorite spot for dinner became the Food Republic in the Wisma Atria mall. It is within walking distance of the Marriott, the small Dim Sum and desert stalls are deliciously tempting and on the way home, you can get a fresh juice right across the street, sit, smoke - if you do - and people watch. See, that’s what I call a vacation. Anyway, Lau Pa Sat is the largest remaining Victorian filigree building in Southeast Asia and home to loads of delicious food stalls. Indian, Chinese, Malay and Italian food are among the locals’ favorites, so you’ll basically find at least two of each in all food courts. Fish is amazing in Singapore and although finding food for those of us who do not eat meat was a bit of a challenge - sometimes things are cooked in beef or chicken broth even if the food itself is vegetarian - it ended up becoming a fun game. If you eat meat, then you MUST try the typical Singaporean dish of “chicken rice” and ask your table neighbor for their favorite way to eat it. Almost certainly, you won’t find two people who do the same thing… Near Lau Pa Sat, there is South Indian staple Saravanaas, which happens to be my fave Indian restaurant in NYC. Believe it or not, I did not have a chance to eat there, as there was just so much more to explore… In Plaza Singapura, I found the best prices and most fun lunches. Fried fish with black pepper sauce at Chen Rong Fish Soup is to die for, as is the food at Yong Tofu, where there are nearly a dozen different types of the soybean curd, as well as assorted vegetables to be boiled right in front of you. I asked for mine over noodles and dry, meaning no broth added. And you must slather on the chili sauce over it if you can stand the heat! Also, try some of the restaurants on Race Course Road in Little India. My favorite there is Jaggi’s Northern Indian Cuisine, with a variety of fresh veg and non-veg dishes every day and rumali roti - the really, really thin whole wheat bread from Lucknow. For some snacks while in Little India, Chellas Vegetarian Corner is great. I had the most rocking bhel puri outside of Bombay there. Spicy, moist and crunchy at the same time and just the right turmeric yellow color. YUM! Finally, for a really special occasion and a great dinner out, do try one of the expensive restaurants in the Swisshotel Stamford. A true take-your-breath-away experience, this of course doesn’t come cheap. But it’s a Singapore Must DO.

WHERE TO SHOP

Did you ever have a dream where you saw yourself surrounded by all the greatest shopping you could ever imagine? Well, I have and when I arrived in Singapore, after my 13 hour flight from Rome, feeling jet-lagged, dehydrated and disoriented, I perked up as soon as I saw that my dream had come true. Singapore is a shopping mecca, which automatically makes it a single girl’s dream. I mean, there are a few, odd women who apparently do not enjoy shopping, but I have yet to meet one of them. I could safely recommend Singapore to all my friends, even the men I know. There is something for everyone in the city of the Merlion - but more on that later… Anyway, the upscale malls, in my view, are the Ngee Ann City and Raffles City. That’s where you’ll find the best shops and Raffles City is quite convenient to many of the sights to be seen in Singapore. Japanese greats Takashimaya and Isetan abound in Singapore and are true fun if shopping for something that you know you just won’t be able to find at home. For those of us who live in the US and are Top Shop deprived, do check out its few locations in Singapore. For more souvenirs and novelties, Chinatown is the place to go. Start out with a cell phone charm of your Chinese horoscope sign, inside the Chinatown Point Mall. There are small carts on the ground floor with most of the goodies and at really good prices too. Then, proceed along New Bridge Road and you’ll find yourself right inside the Chinatown Complex. A great time to visit is, of course, during Lunar New Year holidays, when the place is jumping with activity and crowded to the tilt. Cut inside Pagoda Street and you’ll end up right in front of the Sri Mariamman Hindu Temple. A vision of cultural diversity and religious freedom, I loved my calm moments inside the temple, praying for love, joy and peace. Across from the Hindu temple is the Jamae Mosque, another great sign of unity here. I know it’s all probably a romanticized impression, but a great one for a dreamer of peace like me. It’s also quite easy to get to Lau Pa Sat from here, so it would be a good idea to combine the outings to include that. In Little India, get dropped off by a cab in front of the Tekka Center, an old wet market which includes a variety of Indian clothing shop on the upper level. The jewelry shops in Little India are very pricey, so stay away from those. It’s going to be a while before it’s safe on the wallet again to buy gold… But do wander around the little side streets, nearly getting lost among the spices, the bangles and the music shops. On the way home, get dropped off at Arab Street. Here you’ll find great Indonesian/Malay clothing and fabrics. I came home with a wonderful kebaya - a cotton embroidered jacket which is traditionally fastened with a butterfly broach and is worn over a silk batik sarong. Toko Aljunied has a good selection of hand embroidered ones, though I found their prices too high. Just down the street, Ms. Delilah at Basharahil Bros. House of Batik, is personable, kind and much less expensive. My black kebaya looks great for the NYC summer, on top of dressy black pants or loose jeans. If you arrived in Singapore via Singapore Airlines, then you too fell in love with the outfits worn by their flight attendants. If a Singapore Airlines stewardess dress is what you crave, do check out Madina International, on Arab Street, where you’ll find all sizes, all colors and at really good prices. Again, explore your own Singapore and don’t be afraid to try it all.

WHAT TO SEE

Another city where sightseeing was necessary to me is Singapore. I mean, where else do you find a blue lion, crossed with a mermaid, spouting water from its puckered lips into the harbor?? The answer, of course, in Singapore! The Merlion is a must see, as well as the view from The Stamford hotel. Ask graciously to go up to the top floor and do so before the restaurant opens, at 11 a.m. A smile goes a long way in Singapore. Kindness is not regarded as a sign of weakness, but as a sign of good upbringing, remember. Once you have seen the harbor from up high, step down and cross the park to view the Merlion. You can also plan to have tea inside the famous Fullerton Hotel, or really go all out and have a spa treatment there. Of course, both Chinatown and Little India must be explored and don’t be afraid to tour around town in a taxi, to get the full experience. The Botanic Gardens, the Singapore Art Museum and the Zoo are also fun day trips, though I never found the time between all my meals…

So, to sum it all up: if you are on your way to any country in Asia, I suggest stopping and transiting in Singapore at some point. You won’t be disappointed and the city will make you look at life as a precious commodity to be enjoyed and savored, instead of the crazy rat race we always make it. I hope you’ll N-joy yourself Singapore-style one day, and manage to take the vibe home with you.